Ath Article

And here is what i wrote for the Ath while in Oaxaca. i´m still excited to see what it looked like in print. I´ve been told i dont look as lame as i am... so thats good!

La Vida Oaxaqueña: “Smile Girl, you’re in paradise”

Imagine sitting watching a sunset on a beach in mid- October without needing a parka. In fact, you are watching surfers on world class waves at Puerto Escondido’s Playa Zicatela. Taking pictures and smelling the humid sea-air, a random surfer next to you says, “Smile Girl, you’re in paradise”. I have to smile and agree; México is paradise.
Currently, I am doing a study abroad program with a program called ProMéxico, and we are based in Oaxaca City. The state of Oaxaca is in the southern region, on the pacific coast of México. It’s famous for chocolate Oaxaqueño, pacific beaches like Puerto Escondido, and the states extensive history of striking teachers, and political protests.
As a political science major from Acadia, there is no better no time or place to imagine spending a semester abroad. There is a wide range of impressions of what it is like living in Oaxaca during this time, but remember, drama and danger sell a lot of newspapers. However, based on the Canadian news online, it’s unlikely that Canadians in general have an opinion of the Oaxaca situation.
Briefly, the situation began in May 2006 with the state’s public teachers union going on their annual strike. This trend started in the early 1980’s but usually only lasts a week or two. During these strikes, the union’s purpose is to lobby the state government for a wage increase. However, this year they called for the expulsion of the state governor, Ulises Ruis Ortiz, from office.
Many other groups joined forces with the teachers, creating the APPO or the Asamblea Popular de los Pueblos de Oaxaca (http://www.asambleapopulardeoaxaca.com). The situation elevated on June 14th when there was a failed attempt to expel the protestors from the city center. This attempt inflamed the situation, resulting in massive amount of grafitti and fireworks, marches of varying sizes, and barricades blocking major roads, essentially closing government offices and making life inconvenient for all.
The Canadian and American governments have been advising all citizens of the situation in Oaxaca. Officially the Canadian Department of Consular Affaires has been “advising against all travel to Oaxaca, especially the city center” due to the demonstrations that are occurring daily (voyage.gc.ca – Current Issues). The government’s official position is a logical one; however, the information comes from the skewed perception of local media and a very opinionated Honorary Consul.
Before leaving for Oaxaca, I was advised to register with the local Canadian Consulate within a few days of arriving, which I did promptly three weeks after my arrival. The experience with her was invaluable. The services offered are basic identification so the Canadian government is aware of your status in the city in case drastic measures are needed for political or natural disaster reasons. The Consular office is also responsible for sending status reports to Ottawa.
These reports generally reflect the opinion of the Consul, which in this case is very dramatic. My experience with her was overwhelming, as I essentially got verbally attacked for risking my life by coming to Oaxaca. She proceeded to explain that I should be locked in my house at all times, and leave the country as soon as possible. Despite being a Oaxaca resident for over 30 years, she was negative and abrasive.
While the situation requires a certain amount of caution, I never feel as though I am risking my life by experiencing all the wonders that this city and state have to offer. ProMéxico has been functioning normally advising fellow participants to pay attention to the news and events happening. It is difficult to put yourself in a dangerous situation here because it is the number one topic in the national news, and local conversation. No one wants to see anymore people get hurt by the situation, but it is the one time it is best to listen to the rumours that fly like wildfire.
There have been periods when rumours are more like public advisories. For at least the past three weeks there have been serious threats that the federal police will enter the city and remove the protesters, road blocks, and force the teachers back to school. Thankfully, Presidente Fox is committed to exhausting the peace process. Some speculate that the reason for this is that he is not bold enough to use force since his leadership style has been to wait and let issues play out. Either way, it is a smart political move because any form of violence will deepen the strain this has on the states main source of income: tourism.
The most quoted piece of grafitti in the city center, or Zocálo, says, “Turista go home, Oaxaca anticapitalista”. Unfortunately, this one of a kind piece of artwork has taken all of the international media’s attention. The lack of tourists is hurting the city and since arriving September 1st, I’ve noticed businesses closing, families from rural villages living on the streets, and a general lack of money flow. Even local Oaxaqueños do not go out at night or to the city center for social reasons as they did in the past.
The relative safety of the city has declined due to the lack of a police presence, which has left most people timid and avoiding the unknown. Though, I have yet to have any major scare, even though our group continues to faithfully contribute to the local economy and night life. Currently, the Oaxaca nightlife is considered to be quiet, but we are still in México and it never ceases to disappoint. This is partly because the general friendliness of Oaxaqueños is relaxing. They are some of the most non-judgemental and carefree people I have ever met; even México’s famed machismo is rarely a problem.
For those of you unexposed to machismo before, a rough equivalent in North America would be a “womanizer”, depending on your perspective. In México, the noun to describe the person is a “Machista”. It has a negative reputation, though; sometimes it is considered a compliment amongst men. Machismo is famous because it can be aggressive and explains the patriarchy of society and family life. It is widely accepted but happens most often when there is a group of men standing together on the street waiting for their chance to woo an unsuspecting extranera (female foreigner) or simply show off to their friends.
As a tall Gringa (North American woman) there are some experiences with machismo, but they are more often than not entertaining and good natured provided you do not take yourself or them overly seriously. Countless times now, there have been short Mexican men trying to measure up to our groups height as we pass in the street, lots of whistling, catcalls, and men with an eager desire to practice the few English words they know. A few examples of the most memorable incidents include: “Oh My God! Beautiful Ladies!” and “Hi Babies!”.
Everyday is an amusing, and often random, adventure living in México for the semester. Even taking into account the problems of the city, it is exciting witnessing an event that could change the future of Mexican politics. I still look forward to when a solution is finally reached and I can experience “the real Oaxaca”, but until that day every moment will continue to appeal to the political science in me.
Regardless, I’ll keep falling in love with México for its flowers, fruit, friendly people, and incredible landscapes to match the most beautiful blue sky filled with big fluffy white clouds. Mountains in the Sierra to the Pacific beaches to the cobble stone streets in the city, Oaxaca is the most beautiful place I have ever seen.
There are lots of things to miss from our little Acadia University like watching the leaves change colours, Homecoming weekend, and the unified feeling of stress on campus at midterms. However, with or without problems, I’d recommend Oaxaca to anyone looking for a holiday, a chance to work with dedicated non-governmental organizations, or to live in an incredibly rich culture with the some of the best food in the world.
If you ever get to make the trip to Oaxaca, you’ll be smiling, right along with everyone around you, because you’ll be in Paradise.